Maxine of Underlena

Since setting up her showroom in 2021, Maxine Kelly, the woman behind Underlena, continues redefining the idea of sensuality—its accessibility, with an intent focus on considered sourcing and cuts that celebrate the female form. Here, Maxine shares her thoughts on new wave sensuality, value perceptions during economic distress, and creating knickers that you want to wear every day. She also proposes a radical idea that perhaps the way you dress, beyond reflecting your identity, could change your life.

Interview by Tracey Creed. Images supplied.

Your philosophy is that sensuality should be experienced daily, not on occasion, and you partner with independent lingerie houses on shore and abroad to make that happen for people. Tell us about your background and what led to Underlena.

I’ve always been interested in the idea of sensuality, but found that it is so often led in such a one-dimensional way, leading with sexuality as the focus. When we talk about everyday sensuality I really think about how we can experience pleasure in all of its forms. From very simple things to more complex or luxurious, or indeed sexual, I think there is a spectrum of sensuality that can be accessible to all.

This interest really formed the idea of Underlena - sourcing brands and pieces that are designed for intentional, everyday wear. A focus on beautiful fabrics, cuts that think about the female form, in a way that brings it to life rather than compressing or reducing it.  

You recently launched your line of undergarments—the brief, string bikini and thong, which have been very well received. Was this a gap you were wanting to fill in your top draw?

It was a combination of what I wanted to fill in my own top drawer, and an intuition of what I felt my customers wanted. I’ve spent the last four years in the changing room with our customers, so I see first hand how they want things to fit, sit and feel on their bodies. So it was something very specific - a great brief that also felt a bit sexy in the way that it sits on your hip, with a high leg but nice coverage in the rear. Fabric that is machine washable; lightweight but durable. Knickers that you want to wear every day! 

Your heart must feel so full to read the messages you receive from people saying they feel amazing in your garments. Knowing that something you’ve created can make someone feel more confident or seen must be incredibly rewarding and motivating. This is why we work with clothing. What are you most proud of in your work with your brand and label?

Yes! It’s a real highlight when people share their experience with me. In the showroom space, it’s so common for women to wear the wrong size bra, and to feel a bit resigned to the fact. It’s an incredible feeling to see someone have an abundance of options to choose from, find a brand that works for them well and to see them love how they feel and how they look in it. I’m really proud of the experience that we offer at the showroom - it’s a space that is non-judgemental, not pushy. We have people comment that they have had the best fitting experience of their life - and that really is such an achievement.

The brands you partner with design with purpose and longevity, something that we believe is vital in sustainability conversations, rather than materiality or a label. We see clothing (a lot of it), and the vast majority of donated garments are very fast fashion. These pieces are often not suitable for another owner and life. Do you feel people's perception of value is shifting?

Yes and no. I think there are a couple of things there - we are at a moment where we simultaneously have access to billions of types of garments at a range of price and quality and the ability to purchase from anywhere in the world, all at a time of economic uncertainty. So the perception of value is all over the show - is it just that you got a good deal when you are feeling the pinch? Or is it that you got free shipping? Or feel connected to the brand? Also, just because something is expensive doesn’t mean that it is high quality. With regards to what we do at Underlena, I think peoples perception of value incorporates a few things - our dedication to our sourcing, the experience that we can give people, and the understanding that we have of our brands, their manufacturing practices and the materials that they use. 

It is the nature of commerce that not every style or size will sell out. What are your views on donating the excess? Is there an argument that brands and retailers can contribute towards positive social and environmental impacts without diminishing brand value?

Particularly with lingerie! We end up with a number of sizes from seasonal collections (which we don’t have many of) that just sit there, gathering dust until someone looks in the right direction or we donate it to Common. This is our second year donating to Common, and I now consider it to be a part of our business model. It might be unorthodox, but my view is that what we call ‘dead stock’ is better off living on someones’ body instead of the off chance that we might sell it, heavily discounted. 

I think the argument of diminishing brand value is often associated with luxury companies cutting up leather handbags and throwing them in the skip instead of them being discounted or donated. When partnering with an organisation like Common, you know exactly where the garments are going, and you are receiving that feedback from the recipients. It is part of us operating in community - it is a way that we can give something back, and know that it’s actually having an impact on our community.

There is so much power in how we dress—our personal uniform and brand, it is how we present to the world. How does the way you dress reflect your identity?

It’s how you feel like yourself, isn’t it. You can see it - when someone puts on something that is ‘them’, they relax, and their whole demeanour shifts. And that can impact your whole day, how you interact with others, how you walk etc - would it be too much to say it can change your life?